A Photographer's Guide to The Rhue Peninsula, Ardmair Bay and Strath Kanaird

From there it’s a short walk to Rubha Cadail, where there is a lighthouse and a rocky foreshore which is well known to rock climbers (in view of the sandstone sea-cliffs immediately to the north) but perhaps less well known to landscape photographers.  The headland gives marvellous views north across Isle Martin to the imposing cliffs of Beinn Mhòr Choìgich (see the Coigach Guide for more information on this mountain).

Beinn Mhòr Choìgich and Isle Martin, from Rubha Cadail

Back on the A835 (at the summit of the road before it descends to Ardmair) it’s possible to park the car and walk a short distance to the west; here there is a fine view over Isle Martin and Loch Kanaird to Beinn Mhòr Choìgich.

There can’t be many people who descend the road from this point without feeling the need to stop at Ardmair Point to enjoy the view across Annat Bay to Beinn Ghobhlach and the Summer Isles ; it really is a special spot and its stony beach offers lots of scope for the photographer, particularly at sunset.  In the 1980s  the bay was a haven for Eastern European ‘klondykers’ (fish-processing factory ships); these days it’s generally deserted.

Sunset at Ardmair Point, with Beinn Ghobhlach on the left

Strath Kanaird

This appears on some maps as Strath Canaird.

The River Kanaird rises in the hills to the north-east of Ullapool.  It flows south-west to the sea at Loch Kanaird, to the north of Ardmair Point.  The river valley presents a number of promising places for photography:

The River Runie flows into the River Kanaird near Blughasary.  A couple of hundred metres upstream of this point it passes through a gorge, spanned by a small bridge at NC134015; the river can be accessed from its west side shortly downstream.  There are good photographic opportunities at the series of small waterfalls which occur here.

The River Runie near Blughasary

Lower Strath Kanaird can be especially beautiful in late autumn, when the colours can be outstanding – orange deer grass, dark green gorse and (if you choose your day carefully!) blue sky!

Autumn colours in lower Strath Kanaird

At Blughasary the long-distance footpath to Achiltibuie - 'Taking the Rock' – begins.  This offers spectacular views to the Summer Isles and across Loch Broom to Beinn Ghoblach.  A short detour from this path leads to the remains of an ancient Pictish fort at Dùn Canna (NC112008); this is in a very evocative setting opposite Isle Martin.  The south-west aspect of the fort does however mean that for best results, early morning or late evening visits are required.

Just under 2km north of the settlement of Strathcanaird (at NC157036) there is an exceptionally fine roadside view of the Coigach and Inverpolly hills (Beinn an Eòin, Stac Pollaidh and Cùl Beag).

The Coigach hills seen from the A835 N of Strathcanaird

Special Equipment

There’s no particular need for anything here, other than a tripod and a set of filters.

If intending to venture onto the paths (for example, the Blughasary-Achiltibuie long-distance footpath) then waterproof footwear is essential, and windproof and waterproof should be strongly considered.  Visitors should also familiarise themselves with the Scottish Outdoor Access Code.

If winds are light and skies are overcast any time between late May and late September, visitors may expect to encounter swarms of midges!  Insect repellents may have some limited deterrent effect, but when things get really bad, a physical barrier such as an anti-midge hood may be required.

Timing

On any given day it’s important to be flexible and to be prepared to change plans at a moment’s notice.  Some of the finest photographic conditions I have ever encountered have been at Rubha Cadail and at Strath Kanaird, on days where just a few miles away the skies were overcast – in each case I was headed somewhere else at the time!

Each particular season has its own attractions but autumn is a particularly promising time to photograph in this area.  Deer grass (trichophorum cespitosum) covers much of the area; in October its dying shoots take on an orange colour that can bring whole hillsides to life when the sun appears from behind the clouds.

Place-names

A basic understanding of some of the more common toponymic elements can do much to enhance the visitor’s enjoyment of the area.

Note on Map References

The Map references here are Ordnance Survey Ordnance Survey 6-figure grid references.

Accomodation

Camping, Bed and Breakfast, Self-Catering and youth hostel accommodation is available in Ullapool, while there are chalets and a campsite at Ardmair Point to the north.

The Ullapool area is also a suitable base for areas further north – Coigach, Inverpolly and even Assynt in Sutherland.