Keeping Dartfrogs

A caresheet for poison dartfrogs

Poison dartfrogs come from warm, humid areas of South and Central America. They are small, active during the day and have vivid colours. With suitable care, they can make fascinating vivarium inhabitants.

Vivarium
Lighting
Temperature
Food
Vacations
Where to Buy Frogs
Suitable Species
Stress
More Information
Dendroboard
Dendroworld.co.uk

Poison dartfrogs come from warm, humid areas of South and Central America. They are small, active during the day and most have vivid colours. Wild dartfrogs have toxic skin secretions to deter predators. Most of these toxins are not present in captive bred frogs, so they do not present the same hazard as wild frogs. Dartfrogs are delicate and not a suitable pet for children or for people without any prior experience of keeping amphibians. Most dartfrog species can live for up to 10-15 years in captivity with the provision of proper care. Keeping dartfrogs requires:

A suitable enclosure (vivarium) with a suitable day-night photoperiod and stable temperatures with adequate humidity.
A reliable living food source.

Vivarium

Dartfrogs can successfully be kept in ventilated translucent plastic storage boxes furnished with plants, but this is not recommended as the frogs cannot be seen properly. Glass vivaria (purpose-made with sliding glass doors or converted aquaria) are the best choice. Wooden vivaria are not suitable because of constant humidity. Some ventilation is required so that high humidity is maintained without stagnant air. Approximately 5 litres (1 gallon) per adult frog is the minimum space requirement, but the more space the better. Dartfrogs can climb vertical glass surfaces with ease and squeeze through tiny gaps, as can their insect food. If fruit flies can escape from a vivarium, it is not suitable for dartfrogs. Humidity should be such that there is a trace of condensation on the glass somewhere in the vivarium at all times. Complicated automatic misting systems are not required for small enclosures. Daily hand-misting is a better option for beginners, and daily misting and feeding allows time to observe and interact with the frogs, which will be maximally active and visible at this time.

The vivarium needs a suitable substrate. Expanded clay granules (e.g. hydroleca) with a layer of oak or magnolia leaves on top works very well. Various soil mixtures can also be used, but soil tends to become waterlogged and rot in the permanently damp conditions of a dartfrog vivarium, so should be placed on a permeable membrane (e.g. weed-suppressing membrane or nylon wedding veil material) above a drainage layer of expanded clay granules or pea gravel. Water can be provided by forming a dam to make a shallow pond in one corner of the vivarium, or by providing a shallow water dish. If a water dish is used, this should be cleaned frequently. The vivarium should be well planted with plants which will survive the constant humidity.

Lighting

Fluorescent lights (incandescent and halogen lights give out too much heat) and a timer should be used to provide approximately 12 hours lighting per day. Dartfrogs do not require ultraviolet (UV) light if they are given vitamin and mineral supplements with their food (see below), although suitable UV lights for vivaria can be used and some keepers claim that this provides health benefits for the frogs. Dartfrogs inhabit primarily shady areas, so UV illumination is used, it should not be too intense.

Temperature

Although dartfrogs come from the tropics, they live in cool microhabitats such as the shady forest floor. Heat kills far more dartfrogs than cold. Suitable temperatures for dart frogs are 20-27°C (70-80°F), although they will easily tolerate temperatures down to 15°C (60°F) overnight in winter. Temperatures above 27°C (80°F) must be avoided as the frogs will be likely to die. A drop in temperature of a few degrees overnight is beneficial to the frogs. Lighting increases the temperature of the vivarium so in most domestic circumstances, no additional heating is necessary unless frogs the vivarium is situated in an unheated garage, etc. Attempting to site vivaria in wooden sheds or greenhouses is difficult as they will almost certainly overheat in summer. Never allow direct sunlight to shine on dartfrog vivaria. In warm climates and during heatwaves, air conditioning may be required to keep the temperature of the vivarium within acceptable limits.

Food

Dartfrogs will only eat small living food which moves. Fruit flies (Drosophila) are a suitable basic food source for captive dartfrogs. The frogs must have a constant supply of food. Crickets and mealworms sold in pet shops are too big for dartfrogs to eat. Practice maintaining a constant supply of live food for several weeks before obtaining any frogs. Dartfrogs will eat a range of small living prey items and variety is healthy for the frogs. Captive dartfrogs require vitamin and mineral supplements. All food items should be dusted with a suitable vitamin and mineral supplement designed for reptile and amphibian use either at each feeding or at least once a week. Shake the excess dust from the flies before placing in the vivarium. Adult frogs should be fed 2-4 times a week. All the food items from the previous feeding should have been eaten before the next feed. If not, feed less next time. Amphibians consume less food than warm-blooded animals such as mammals and excess feeding can cause frogs to become obese, prevent breeding and shorten their lifespan. Young frogs (<3 months old) should ideally have a constant supply of food available.

Vacations

Healthy adult dartfrogs can occasionally be left for up to one week provided that the vivarium will stay within a suitable temperature and humitidy range while you are away. If you are away for longer than a week, you will need to arrange a suitably experienced person to look after your frogs.

Where to Buy Frogs

Especially when you are starting out, buy frogs directly from a reputable breeder. Visit the breeder and collect the frogs in person if at all possible - the advice you will gain will be worth far more than the cost of the fuel/fare.

Suitable Species

Larger species such as Dendrobates leucomelas and D. tinctorius (many different morphs) are attractive, active, robust and ideal for beginners. Dendrobates auratus tends to be shy. Epipedobates tricolor is also active and robust and therefore suitable first dartfrogs. "Thumbnail" frogs such as Oophaga pumilio are not suitable first dartfrogs - get some experience maintaining a more readily available species first. It is not advisable to mix different species of dartfrog in a single vivarium as this results in stress to the frogs.