Chemical Peels

Skin Peels - AHA, Glycolic, TCA and Phenol

“Chemical peel” is an umbrella term that encompasses several different types of chemical treatments used to remove the surface layers of the skin. While there is no actual “peeling” involved, the idea is to remove one or several layers of skin depending on the specific treatment involved. Chemical peels are commonly used to treat the results of photo-aging (damage to our skin caused by the sun), and can help reduce sun spots, wrinkles, acne, and acne scars. Chemical peels also encourage cell regeneration and collagen development, both of which improve the appearance of the skin.


How does a chemical peel work?

All chemical peels use a chemical solution to dissolve skin layers and encourage healthy cell regrowth and rejuvenation.  This solution is applied to the surface of the skin—usually the face, back, or chest area—and remains there for a predetermined period of time.  The chemicals in the solution slowly dissolve the dead skin cells that rest on the surface of the skin, and deeper peels can go beyond that to eliminate deeper layers as well.  Once the peel has been completed, the clinician will remove any remaining chemical solution.

Chemical peels are relatively painless for most patients.  Milder surface peels produce a minor tingling sensation as the chemical solution goes to work, while deeper chemical peels use solutions that have a secondary anesthetic effect.  This means that the solution used in deeper peels will numb the skin as it works, preventing discomfort during the chemical peel process.


Chemical Peel Applications

Chemical peels provide good results when used in concert with other treatments.  They have been shown to improve:

  • Sun spots
  • Wrinkles and fine lines
  • Acne
  • Acne scars
  • Uneven skin tone or texture
  • Sun damage



Types of Chemical Peels

A number of different chemical peels are available to today, with each offering a different type of chemical solution for the skin.

Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) Peels

Alpha Hydroxy Acid or “AHA” Peels are some of the most popular on the market.  AHA Peels are surface peels, usually focusing on removing only the stratum corneum—the topmost layer of dead skin cells that rest on the surface of your skin.  Because of their mild nature, many ‘at-home’ peels are of the AHA variety.  This same characteristic makes AHA peels good for the treatment of acne, blocked pores, and general exfoliation.  Beware when choosing a peel, however, as stronger AHA peels do exist.  You can get a sense of the strength of your solution by checking its pH and concentration[1][2].

Glycolic Acid Peels

Glycolic acid peels are a very close relative of AHA peels, and share similar characteristics.  In fact, glycolic acid peels are often referred to as “lunchtime peels” in reference to their quick application and near-zero downtime.  Like AHA, glycolic acid peels can exist at a higher concentration.  Higher-concentration solutions (80% being the highest typically used) will result in a deeper peel and a greater dissolution of tissue, and should only be administered by an experienced professional[3][4][5].

Trichloroacetic Acid (TCA) Peels

Trichloroacetic acid or “TCA” peels are among the most common peel used by clinicians.  A TCA solution is applied to the skin and allowed to sit for about 10 to 15 minutes.  Depending on the concentration of the solution, TCA peels can be (as with all peels) either superficial or deep.  TCA peels also tend to have more dramatic results that AHA or glycolic acid peels, and are frequently used in the treatment of brown spots, surface blemishes, and uneven pigmentation or skin tone.  However, those using TCA peels should be aware of the risk of side effects, including increased sensitivity to sunlight and potential hyper- or hypo-pigmentation[6][7].

Phenol Peels

Phenol peels are the strongest chemical peels available, and as such are also the highest-risk, highest-reward peel on the market.  Because of their strength, phenol peels can be used to remove deep wrinkles, smooth and treat severely aged skin, and eliminate age spots.  While the treatment itself only takes about ten minutes, the solution works quickly, dissolving cells all the way down into the epidermis.  Recovery time can extend beyond a week, as the depth of a phenol peel leaves the skin open and raw.

In the last several years, phenol peels have largely fallen out of favor due to high risk of cardiac complications, scarring, and infection.  In their place, laser treatment has risen as a much lower-risk and equally effective alternative.


Patients Who Take Retin-A

All patients who take Retin-A should be especially careful when considering any kind of chemical or abrasive skin treatment, as Retin-A can increase the effects and strength of those treatments.  Dry skin, sunburned skin, and other compromised skin should also be taken into consideration, as it can affect the results of treatment and even cause scarring.


Resources


WebMD
www.chemicalpeel.org
Duke Health


[1] Ditre CM, Griffin TD, Murphy GF, et al. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: a pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. J Am Acad Dermatol 1996; 34:187-195.

[2] Van Scott EJ, Yu RJ. Control of keratinization with alpha-hydroxy acids and related compounds, I:topical treatment of ichthyotic disorders. Arch Dermatol 1974; 110:586-590

[3] Bernstein EF, Underhill CB, Lakkakorpi J, et al. Citric acid increases viable epidermal thickness

[4] Briden E, Jacobsen E, Johnson C. Combining superficial glycolic acid (alpha-hydroxy acid) peels with microdermabrasion to maximize treatment results and patient satisfaction. Cutis. 2007 Jan;79(1 Suppl Combining):13-6.

[5] Briden E, Jacobsen E, Johnson C. Combining superficial glycolic acid (alpha-hydroxy acid) peels with microdermabrasion to maximize treatment results and patient satisfaction. Cutis. 2007 Jan;79(1 Suppl Combining):13-6.

[6] Brodland DG, Roenigk RK. Trichloroacetic acid chemexfoliation for extensive premalignant actinic damage of the face and scalp [published erratum appears in Mayo Clin Proc 1988; 63:1122]. Mayo Clin Proc 1988; 63:887-896.

[7] Lawrence N, Cox SE, Cockerell CJ, et al. A comparison of the efficacy and safety of Jessner’s solution and 35% trichloroacetic acid vs 5% fluorouracil in the treatment of widespread facial actinic keratoses. Arch Dermatol 1995; 131:176-181.

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Eric Bernstein
Eric Bernstein
Dermatologist
Bryn Mawr, PA
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