Kitchen faucet installation

Getting started

Installing a new kitchen faucet isn’t tough at all. Actually, the directions that come with your new faucet are probably all you’ll need to do that part of the job.  But what the directions don’t mention are the problems that can pop up while you’re trying to get the old one out. You may be faced with bushwhacking your way through a dark, dank jungle of drainpipes, water lines, a garbage disposer and maybe more, just to access the faucet. Then, you’ll be called on to perform pretzel-like contortions inside the sink cabinet to pull an old faucet with connections that may be so badly corroded you’ll swear they’re welded together.

Here’s what you need to know to get through the tough parts.

Tools and materials

Chances are, you’ll need to make more than one trip to the hardware store for parts, but to give yourself a fighting shot at completing the job with one-stop shopping, consult this list.

Shutoff valves: Before you shop for your new faucet, take a look under the sink and make sure that there are shutoff valves feeding the faucet. If you don’t have shutoff valves, add them. If you have them, confirm that they’re in working order by turning on the hot and cold water at the faucet and shutting off the valves. If the faucet still drips, install new ones. Most likely you have 1/2-in. copper supply pipes. If so, add easy-to-install solderless “compression fitting” valves (Photos 9 and 10) to your shopping list. But if not, buy whichever valve type is compatible with your pipes.

Supply tubes: Next, measure the existing supply tubes and buy new stainless steel–sleeved supply tubes (Photo 9). They’re designed to give rupture-free service for years and can be routed around obstacles without kinking.

Basin wrench: Also buy a basin wrench (Photo 4). This weird little wrench is made specifically for removing and installing those hard-to-reach fasteners that clamp older faucet assemblies to the sink. (Newer faucets have plastic wing nuts that can usually be loosened and tightened by hand.) A basin wrench’s spring-loaded jaws pivot so you can either loosen or tighten nuts in tight spaces. You may also need a pipe wrench or a slip-joint pliers (Photo 1) for the drain lines and an adjustable wrench for the water lines.

Plan on replacing your faucet during store hours. Chances are better than 50/50 you’ll need at least one more part.  

Access to the faucet and the back of the sink is usually blocked by pipes and P-traps. Don’t be afraid to pull them out or replace them with new ones. If you have older, chrome-plated drain lines, the pipe walls may be so corroded that they’ll crush in the jaws of a pipe wrench or slip-joint pliers. After you remove them, throw all the parts in a box for matching them exactly at the store later. If you have plastic drain parts, be careful during removal—you’ll probably be able to reuse them.

1. Disconnect the drain lines and p-traps if they block your access to the faucet and water supply pipes. (Place a bucket or coffee can under the P-trap to dump residual water after you pull it free.)

2. Unplug the garbage disposer, or shut off the circuit breaker in the main service panel if the disposer is directly wired. Disconnect the dishwasher discharge line and place a 1-gal. paint can under the garbage disposer with some rags on top to cushion the disposer when it drops free. Release the disposer by tapping the retaining ring with a hammer in a counter-clockwise direction. If it's hard wired, set it aside inside the cabinet with the electrical cable still attached.
 

Disconnecting the old faucet

The first step in removing the old faucet is to disconnect the water supply lines. If there are no shutoff valves and the water pipes are hooked up directly to the faucet supply lines, or if you’re replacing defective valves, turn off the main water supply valve to the house and cut off the pipes (Photo 3) below the connections with a tube cutter. Make sure new valves are closed before turning the water back on to the house. 

3. If you’re installing or replacing valves, cut the water lines directly below the fittings with a tube cutter or hacksaw, then install new shutoff valves.

Once the water lines are disconnected, use the basin wrench to loosen the old faucet and remove it (Photo 4).

4. Reach up behind the sink, fit the basin wrench jaws onto the tailpiece nuts and turn counterclockwise to loosen. Then disconnect the spray nozzle hose, remove the faucet and clean the sink area under the old faucet flange. 

Selecting a new faucet

When you’re buying a faucet, you get what you pay for. The least expensive faucets may be made of chrome-plated plastic parts with seals and valves that wear out quickly. Mid-price-range faucets generally have solid brass bodies with durable plating and washerless controls that’ll give leak-free service for many, many years. Some even come with a lifetime warranty. With the most expensive faucets you’re mostly paying for style and finish.

5. Follow the manufacturer’s preassembly instructions and place the flange (see Photo 8) over the faucet opening. Finger-tighten the flange nuts underneath the sink and check the alignment of the flange, faucet and sink hole from above. 

6. Check the operation of the faucet and handle to confirm you’re not putting it in backward, and thread the feeder lines through the flange and sink holes. Then slip on the faucet washer, and thread on and tighten the faucet-mounting nut from below, gently spreading the faucet supply tubes if necessary to gain tool clearance (sometimes manufacturers provide a special tool for this). 

TIP
With most faucets, only three of the four holes are covered, so you’ll either need to get a blank insert or use the extra hole for a liquid soap or instant hot water dispenser. Plan to do the installation while you’re under the sink with everything torn apart.

7. Hand-tighten, then snug up the flange nuts with an open-end wrench. You can only turn the wrench about a one-sixth revolution at a time.

8. Thread the spray nozzle line through the faucet body, then thread the spray hose fitting onto the faucet supply tube and tighten it. Pull the nozzle out of the faucet to make sure the hose under the sink operates freely, then attach the counterweight following the manufacturer’s instructions.

9. Tighten the new valves onto the supply tubes and mark the feeder lines just above the compression nuts on the valves for cut-off.

10. Clean the copper tubing with fine sandpaper, then slip the nut, compression ring and valve body over the pipe and tighten. Close the valve, turn on the main water valve and check for leaks. Place a bucket under the faucet and turn the faucet on to check for leaks. Reassemble the garbage disposer, P-traps and drain lines.

Replace the sink

Replacing the entire sink instead of just the faucet is more expensive but not much more work because you just pull the old faucet and sink out together. You’ll need a large slip-joint pliers for the drain fittings, a fine-tooth saw or miter saw to cut the plastic drain pipe, a set of open-end wrenches or two adjustable wrenches to loosen and tighten the supply tubes, and hex head nut drivers for the sink clips and the clamp on the dishwasher drain. 

Parts and Supplies 

• Plumber’s putty
• Tub-and-tile caulk
• Two basket strainer assemblies (only one if you’re installing a disposer)You’ll need the following 1-1/2 in. PVC drain parts:
• One P-trap assembly 
• One end or center outlet waste kit 
• Two sink tailpieces—only one if you’re installing a disposer. If you have a dishwasher and no disposer, get a special “dishwasher” tailpiece that has a tube to connect the dishwasher drain hose.
• One special “disposer” waste arm, if you have a disposer.
• Two flexible water supply tubes for kitchen sinks. Match the nuts on the ends to the threads on your faucet and shutoff valves. Also measure to determine the right length.

First turn off the water to the sink.  Make sure the shutoffs under the sink work.  If they don't completely stop the water or if you don't have any, install new shutoffs.  

Place a bucket under the trap to catch wastewater while you loosen the slip-joint nuts. Pull off the drain hose from the dishwasher and remove the disposer. Use a pair of pipe wrenches to separate drain parts that won’t yield to large slip-joint pliers. Don’t worry about damaging the pipes; you can replace them with new plastic pipes.

Working carefully, slice the caulk around the rim of the sink with a utility knife, then slip a stiff putty knife under the sink lip and gently pry up to loosen it. On some sinks, you must remove the mounting clips from under the sink before you lift it out.  Cast iron sinks just lift out, but they're heavy and you may need a helper.

Measure the old sink, then buy a new one the same size.  If you decide to install a sink that’s larger or deeper than your current one, first check the cabinet width below to make sure it’ll fit.  The new sink will come with an installation template showing where to cut the countertop opening.  Cut laminate countertop openings with a circular saw and jigsaw.  Solid surface material like Corian can also be cut with woodworking tools, but tile and natural stone countertops  require diamond blades and special tools.  Talk to a tile or countertop dealer before attempting to cut a larger opening in stone or tile so you can get the right tools for the material you're cutting.

Clean off any old caulk and dirt from the sink opening in the countertop, then attach the new faucet to the new sink.  

1. Mount the new faucet to the new sink. Follow the instructions provided with your faucet. Protect your countertop with cardboard. 

2. Set your new sink in the countertop to check the fit, then trace around it with a pencil. Enlarge the hole if necessary. Remove the sink and apply a bead of mildew resistant tub-and-tile caulk just to the inside of the pencil line. Set the sink back in the hole and use a nut driver to tighten the clips that hold the sink down (Photo 3). Tighten the clips just enough to close the gap between the sink and countertop. Don’t overtighten. Clean up the excess caulk with a damp cloth.

Most cast iron sinks are held in place by their own weight and a bead of caulk. 

3. Tighten sink clips from under the sink.  

4. Roll plumber’s putty into a 1/2- in. dia. rope and form it around each drain opening. Press the top half of the basket strainer assembly down into the plumber’s putty on one side. On the other, press the disposer drain down into the putty.

5. Assemble the undersink half of the basket strainer assembly and tighten the large nut with the slip-joint pliers. Hold the basket with your hand to keep it from spinning. Reassemble the disposer drain and tighten the three screws. Clean the excess plumber’s putty from around the drain openings and polish the sink with a dry cloth.

6. Connect the water supply valves to the new faucet with flexible braided stainless steel sink connectors. Hand-tighten the connections. Then turn them an additional quarter turn with a wrench. 

7. Loosely assemble the new PVC drain fittings. Hold up and mark parts needing to be cut. Then saw them with a fine-tooth wood saw or hacksaw. Slope the horizontal pipes down slightly toward the drain in the wall. Hand-tighten all the fittings and turn the nuts an additional quarter turn with the large slip-joint pliers. 

More information

Replace a kitchen sink basket and trap

Replace a sink basket strainer 

Fix a leaking sink sprayer 

Plumbing an island sink

Single handle faucet repair 

Repair a kitchen faucet

Use ball-type shutoff valves to prevent leaks 

The pros and cons of countertop materials

Remodel your kitchen for maximum storage and light