Going to Singapore, but not sure what to do, where to go?
Top Pick - Eating, the favorite local pasttime
Food is the most interesting aspect of Singapore. Speaking as a local, we are crazy about food and it is common for people to queue for hours so that they can eat their favorite dish from that particular store. Most of the time, the best food stalls are found tucked away in grotty and squeezy compounds known as hawker centres. The following are my top picks on various "must-try" dishes in Singapore based on personal experience and word of mouth.
1) Chicken Rice
- Yet Con Chicken Rice and Restaurant
25 Purvis Street
Although it's called Hainanese chicken rice, the chicken rice served in Singapore cannot be found in Hainan Island. It's invented by Hainanese immigrants to Singapore. Since it's a local invention, the only place to get authentic chicken rice is Singapore, so do not miss this dish!
And there's nowhere better to eat the original Singaporean Hainanese version than at Yet Con. Founded in 1940, this restaurant looks as if it hadn't changed its facade since then. When you enter the restaurant, you will be greeted by an equally historical looking Hainanese elderly man who's busily running his fingers down the abacus when he's not directing customers to tables. A friend of mine who started going to Yet Con since she was a wee tot 20 years ago, said the same Hainanese uncle has been holding the fort at Yet Con since then. So please go and try this before he decides to retire! The shio bak (roast pork) here is apparently good and they also serve other Hainanese dishes like pork chops and chap chye (stir fried cabbage).
- Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice
Maxwell Road Hawker Centre Stall 10
Anthony Bourdain and Tetsuya Wakuda apparently ate here. The version here is somewhat modified from the original Singaporean Hainanese version a little, but great enough for celebrity chefs!
2) Bak Chor Mee (Minced pork and sliced liver noodles)
- Ah Kow Bak Chor Mee
Hong Lim Food Centre, #02-43
Ah Kow is probably the name of the owner, literally means "doggie". The older generation of Chinese liked to name their children really awful names like this due to the superstitious belief that naming your kid nicely would tempt the evil spirits to snatch them away.
Hong Lim Food Centre is near Chinatown. If you happen to be here in the run-up to Chinese New Year, which usually happens in January/February, be sure to visit Chinatown to squeeze with everybody else buying Chinese New Year goodies from throngs of little makeshift stores set up just for this festive season. This is also the only place where you can see firecrackers in action, set off in a highly controlled manner by the authorities on Chinese New Year's Eve.
- Hill Street Tai Hwa Minced Meat Noodles
Block 466 Crawford Lane, #01-12
3) Laksa
- Zhen Shan Mei Claypot Laksa
Block 120 Bukit Merah Lane 1, #01-75
The place is called Alexandra Village if you are speaking to taxi drivers who might not know the exact address. This Laksa stall is sooooo spicy but chilli eaters like myself have a death wish anyway.
Two stalls away from this Laksa stall, there is a lady selling grass jelly, which is very cooling and just the right thing to have with your Laksa.
4) Prawn Noodle Soup
- Beach Road Prawn Mee Eating House
370 East Coast Road
Sign of a good hawker means they can open during highly arbitrary hours and still do a thriving business. This one opens from 8am-3pm only.
5) Fried Kway Teow
- Heng Huat Char Kway Teow
121 Pasir Panjang Road
Pasir Panjang Food Centre
5 Miles Stall #01-36
My parents swear by this char kway teow.
- Laofuzi Char Kway Teow
Old Airport Road Hawker Centre
Blk 51 Old Airport Road
My wife likes this one too, because it's not too oily.
- Newton Circus 302 Chao Guo Tiao
Serangoon Way Food Centre Stall 46
My wife vaguely recalls queueing up for this with her parents when she was a wee tot and it was still at Newton Circus. It's been around for 40 years, and the uncle frying it is OLD. Don't miss it because he might retire soon!
6) Bak Kut Teh
- Ng Ah Sio Pork Ribs Eating House
208 Rangoon Road
A local pork rib soup. An anecdote about this stall: former Thai PM Thaksin Shinawatra and HK Chief Executive Donald Tsang apparently tried to patronise it.
7) Hokkien Mee
- Nam Sing Hokkien Mee
Old Airport Road Hawker Centre
Blk 51 Old Airport Road
- Hainan Hokkien Mee
Golden Mile Food Centre stall 34
505 Beach Road
- Geylang Lor 29 Fried Hokkien Mee
396 East Coast Road
Heard many good things about these stalls.
8) Kway Chap
- To-ricos Guo Shi
Old Airport Road Hawker Centre
Blk 51 Old Airport Road
9) Roti Prata
Unlike the Indian Roti or Paratha, this Roti Prata is almost like a local hybrid of both. Thicker than a Roti and thinner than a Paratha.
Just go to either Bedok Simpang or Jalan Kayu and patronise the most crowded stall. These two areas have a huge concentration of Roti Prata stalls. Remember to wash your Roti Prata down with a nice cup of hot teh tarik or cold dinosaur (ask and you shall discover).
10) Malay Food
Malays are sort of the indigenous people of Singapore, though there are more Malays in Malaysia, and hence probably a greater variety there. In any case, if you can't go to Malaysia, Singapore is also a good place to get a sampling.
- Selera Rasa (Adam Road No. 1)
No. 2 Adam Road Food Centre
Come here for Nasi Lemak, a Malay coconut rice with sweet chilli and assorted side dishes such as fried chicken wings, peanuts and ikan bilis and egg. Centrally located along Bukit Timah Road. Ideal for those staying near Orchard Road. Adam Road Food Centre is famous for its Malay food. Satay is supposedly good here too.
- Sinar Pagi Nasi Padang
#01-353 Geylang Serai Temporary Market
One thing though, Nasi Padang is an Indonesian cuisine consisting of white rice and side dishes such as assorted curry and vegetables. But it's been modified since Singaporean Malays imported it, so it probably tastes uniquely different here. I recommend this one because Geylang Serai is to the Malays is what Chinatown is to the Chinese, so after enjoying Nasi Padang here, you can soak up lots of local Malay culture. During the Hari Raya season, which usually happens between October-December, this place is PACKED with tonnes of little Malay stalls selling Hari Raya goodies, clothes and decorations. If you happen to be in Singapore during this period, be SURE to go to Geylang Serai. Geylang Serai is also famous for Malay food. Remember to try Chendol when you are here.
However, if you just want good Nasi Padang and nothing else, Sabar Menanti II (747 North Bridge Road) is apparently the place to go. Sabar Menanti means wait patiently in Malay - so you can see how good the food is. They also close at 5pm everyday, meaning their business is so good they need not work the dinner crowd.
- Rahim Muslim Food
Kovan Centre Ah Sia Eating House
9 Yio Chu Kang Road
Heard good things about the Mee Rebus here, though I still like the one my wife's uncle makes!
11) Ice Kachang and other yummy local desserts like Pulut Hitam, Cheng Teng etc
- Dove Desserts
Blk 22 Toa Payoh Lorong 7, #01-21
- Ye Lai Xiang Hot and Cold Cheng Tng
Bedok Corner Food Centre Stall 31
It specialises in Cheng Tng, a local cooling dessert with dried longans, barley and other yummy things.
- Mohammad Sultan Road Hot and Cold Cheng Tng
Zion Riverside Food Centre Stall 7
12) DURIAN
Last but not least, the king of Southeast Asian fruits - Durians. This one deserves capital letters because you can't visit Malaysia and Singapore without eating durians. Most of our good durians come from Malaysia. Aficionados will tell you not to touch the Thai durians as they are not "fragrant" (or stinky, depending on your inclinations) enough. A local newspaper once quoted a caucasian expatriate saying, eating durians is "like eating your favourite ice-cream while sitting in the toilet"
Just go to Geylang, there's a durian store almost every km apart. In some places, there are several stores next to each other. Go to a stall that "guarantees" the taste. These owners will open the fruit in front of you to let you taste it. If it's no good, you can apparently walk away. But be careful of cheats that try to sell you "special" durians at undisplayed prices. You might end up with a $20/kg bag of durians.
Food links
This website gives you directions to most of the famous hawker centres in Singapore, so print it out if you intend to binge:
Other top food websites/blogs:
Caution
Do NOT go to Newton Food Centre or Lau Pa Sat unless you want a quick hawker fix in a business district location. As these food centres are in business districts, they tend to be pretty expensive tourist traps.
Sights and Attractions
1) Geylang
The red light district central in Singapore. If you go to the right Lorongs (lanes in local dialect), you can see lines of trendily dressed girls just "hanging around" and waiting...... Well, they are mostly prostitutes. Because soliciting is illegal in Singapore, they simply stand around and wait to be approached by "customers".
Sounds seedy, but the area is really quite safe, although ladies should go with some male company at night lest they be mistaken for a certain profession.
And because of the steady supply of core nighttime clientele here, Geylang has over the years become a real night hub, with 24 hour restaurants and eating places, karaoke and....yes, DURIAN stalls that open late into the night.
Food here is generally good, because people either come here to eat or find nighttime entertainment. So just look for any eating place that's packed with locals and you'll be sure to get decent local food. But just in case, this is a really good Singapore food blog with a list of "to-eats" in Geylang.
2) Night Safari and Singapore Zoo
The Night Safari was the first of its kind when it opened. It seeks to replicate the nighttime safari experience in a controlled manner by having guided tours on trams that bring you pretty close to various safari animals resting in their compounds.
The Singapore Zoo is right opposite to the Night Safari. Sadly, it's main celebrity, Ah Meng, a super old orang utan passed away recently (more than 100 years old in human age when it died). But you can still have breakfast with other orang utans.
3) Singapore Botanic Gardens
In terms of tropical rainforests, Singapore does not have as much to offer as Indonesia or Malaysia. So I wouldn't recommend any of the local reserve trails unless you're staying in Singapore for an extended period of time. However, the Singapore Botanic Gardens is a very well-organised park where one can see a good selection of local and Southeast Asian plants within just a few hectares.
The garden has a small patch of secondary rainforest, and the main attraction is that if you go on the second Saturday of each month at 9am, 10am, 11am or 4pm, you can get free guided tours of the rainforest patch.
To me, the main attraction of the garden, however, is the National Orchid Garden. Singapore is one of the leading orchid hubs in the world, and the orchid garden features more than 700 species and 3000 hybrid orchids, including many rare and celebrity/VIP orchids (orchids named after famous people. There is even a cool house, which replicates the cool 20 deg climate of the tropical mountain environment and features many unusual orchids that grow under such conditions. Similarly, the orchid garden has free guided tours on the third Saturday of every month at 9am, 10am, 11am or 4pm, though one must pay $5 for entry to the orchid garden itself. (Children, students and senior citizens can go in free or at a discount.) Why do I know this? My wife used to be a National Orchid Garden guide.
If you'd like to see a coastal swamp in Singapore, there is Chek Jawa at Pulau Ubin. My wife, who used to be a guide at Chek Jawa, tells me that the unique thing about coastal swamps in Singapore is that they are much more compact (i.e. you see alot more variation in a small area) than swamps in Malaysia or Indonesia. It is suspected that the reason is that Singapore and it's offshore islands are so tiny that the swamps have to compact alot more variety into a smaller area.
Tours at Chek Jawa used to be free but one could strictly go there only under supervision of a guide. But now, boardwalks have been created for people to do DIY tours. Guided tours are still an option, but now there is apparently a charge.
Once you are at Pulau Ubin, don't just go to Chek Jawa. Rent a bicycle and tour around the whole island. The island is almost a blast from the past, and is what Singapore used to look like as a small kampung village before it became so developed.
5) Museums
If you like museums, my top pick is the Asian Civilisations Museum - it features some exhibits unique to Southeast Asia which you might not see in western countries. They have free guided tours in English almost all days of the week.
The National Museum of Singapore
It just re-opened last year after years of renovation. I have not been there myself, but it's worth a look, since it's the main museum of Singapore.
Shopping - The other national past time
1) Goods and Services Tax refunds
I put this first because as a tourist, you should know you can get back your 7% GST if you spend a minimum sum at most established stores.
2) Electronic and IT products
Known to be relatively cheap in Singapore, as Singapore has a low tax on electronics. At malls like Sim Lim and Funan, bargaining is allowed. But be sure to shop around to get the best price, as unfortunately, some store owners still like to take advantage of tourists or those who don't know the market rate.
3) 24 hour shopping
I recommend Mustafa Center, which is smack in the hard of Little India (see Shopping in Little India), and famous among locals and, as I have been told visitors from India. It's a one-stop sells it all store, and has everything from jewellery to textiles to cooking applicances to DVDs.
4) General shopping and fashion products
All guidebooks will tell you to go to Orchard Road for this purpose, as all the top brands and lots of modern entertainment and eating establishments, including some very posh ones, are concentrated here.
However, for a one-stop shopping experience, I recommend VivoCity. It is one of the newest big malls in Singapore, and is very near to Sentosa, a resort-type offshore island which is very popular with both tourists and locals (though I personally feel it's overrated). This mall is pretty family friendly, as there are alot of children's play areas, such as a playground, and water features throughout the mall. There is also a very good concept food court on the top floor of Vivo City that tries to replicate the atmosphere of Singapore streetside eating in the early 1900s, but with air-conditioning thrown in.





Hui Tan
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great omlet recipes !~
Mohamed Zaman
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Yeah!!!
everything u said is true.
Hsiaoshuang
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Singapore is most boring place on earth
viswa
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Visit Singapore
Nice Article.
You showed us around singapore.
My brother is working there,planning to go there sometime.
You missed to mention the Muruga temple(tallest).
Thanks for sharing.
Best Wishes,
Kannan Viswagandhi
http://www.vickytech
Danesh Daryanani
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Teh Halia
Anonymous
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Just what you should know.